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Do It Yourself Termite Control


Summary: Treating houses that have become infested with termites takes patience and persistence. You should make sure that any pest control company you hire is as determined as you are to treat your termite problem until it is solved. Or, you can try do-it-yourself termite control techniques.

The first thing that you need to do when approaching a termite problem is to do a termite inspection of your property. You could do this yourself by looking for signs of termite damage, or you can hire a trained professional to do it for you. If you suspect that you have termites, I would recommend that you consult a professional first. If you have already received a professional opinion and still would like to try to tackle the problem yourself, then lots of information is what you require.

A proper termite inspection will often pinpoint where termites are hiding. Termites are attracted to water damaged wood, so places that are exposed to moisture, or anywhere where wood is touching soil, are good places to start looking for termite activity. Sometimes, however, there will be no clear signs of termites other than old damaged wood or old, abandoned termite tunnels.

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If you suspect termites draw a floor plan map of your house. Mark doorways and windows, as well as gutters, down spouts, air conditioning drains and other places where moisture collects. Also, note locations of tree stumps, wooden playhouses, or stacks of firewood. You should be concerned about the spots where termites might be gaining entry to the house or objects that might attract termites.

There are liquid treatments and bait treatments for termite control. In this article I am going to focus on bait treatments. They are easier to install, require no drilling of concrete slabs or trenching along foundations, and they do not poison the soil, as do liquid termiticides.

Once you have located your termite “trouble spots” you will need to dig holes in which you will insert the bait stations. You can do this with a hand auger or power auger that you can rent from any tool rental store.

The bait holes should be about six inches deep, one or two feet from the foundation of the building, spaced about ten feet apart. The bait station may be loaded with monitor stakes, which do not contain an active ingredient, or an active bait ingredient, depending upon the manufacturer. The top of the stations should be pushed into the soil, level with the ground. Make sure that the soil is packed closely, but not too tightly, around the termite monitoring device.

There are many different brands of bait designed for termites like Firstline, HexPro, Subterfuge, Spectracide and Advance. The baits work by attracting the termites to feed on the bait which contains a slow acting poison that the termites carry with them back to their colony. Baits work slowly, but they can destroy an entire termite colony. Some products use a wooden monitor to attract the termites, while others start right off with active bait. Which product you use should be based upon product reviews found on the web.

Mark the locations of the bait stations with surveyor's flags so that you do not forget where they are if they get covered by mulch or snow. You need to monitor the stations once a month to check for termite activity. If termite activity is discovered, replace the monitoring stake with the active ingredient supplied by the manufacturer or replenish active bait, as needed.

When you see that termites are no longer feeding you can assume the colony has been destroyed. Replace the interior monitors and continue to inspect the monitors once every two months. New termite colonies often take up where old colonies once were active.

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Bait stations, even when properly placed, are not a guarantee of successful treatment against termites. Professionals will have more experience dealing with termite infestations, so they will have a better chance of placing bait station in places where termites are likely to feed. Professionals also can spray chemicals around the perimeter of your house to prevent against termites in the first place. Professionals use an integrated pest management approach to dealing with termites to take away favorable conditions such as removing wood that has been exposed to moisture.

Termites damage houses slowly. They do not buzz-saw a house like represented in cartoons. So, even if your attempts are ultimately unsuccessful, it will not hurt to take some time to try a do-it-yourself approach. If you continue to see termites after several months, however, I would recommend biting the bullet and calling a pest control company that specializes in termite treatments.





Comments

Richard Schanda
05 Apr 2009, 12:11
I found insect damage to some of the wood trim and at one area of my foundation sill. 20 yr old house with a full basement and the sill damage was in area off my deck where water had been a problem. I had T...X come in and inspect and they said I had termites. Paid them $1200+ and they trenched the perimeter of the house and applied a chemical barrier. Now they would like me to pay them another $250 per year to inspect and reapply when necessary.
Since having this done I've researched termites and carpenter ants and think that my infestation was actually the carpenter ants - no signs of "mud tubes" plenty of ant signs including big black ants.
Now the Q: I'd like to forego the yealy contract and take over the preventive measures myself - is this reasonable?
Are the trenching chemicals that T...X typically uses for termites also good for controlling the ants?
-Thanks, Richard.
Ask the Exterminator
05 Apr 2009, 23:32
Termites and carpenter ants both are attracted to moisture. I cannot comment on your pest control company's diagnosis other than to say you should have done your homework before agreeing to a treatment. They should have shown you evidence of termite activity. Now, it's your word against theirs.

Liquid termiticides are pumped into the ground to control the termites. Carpenter ants live in rotting tree stumps or logs, so the sub-soil termite treatment is not likely to have any effect on them. If you had carpenter ants prior to the termite treatment you should still have signs of ant activity, but that still does not prove you did not have termites.

Annual termite renewal fees are common in the pest control industry. The renewal fee is just like an insurance policy. Dropping the policy releases your pest control company from any future obligation. Your decision. Your wish to "take over the preventive measures" amounts to you keeping an eye on your home. You are not permitted to re-treat any areas unless new signs of termites show up. That's the law of the label. So, all you can do is learn how to identify termite activity and watch for it.
Richard Schanda
06 Apr 2009, 00:20
Thanks for the quick reply. I take full blame for not doing enough homework and I have no plans to try to get my money back. They did a good job trenching and I assume applied the correct chemicals, so I'm ok with what's occurred so far. I live in NH and we aren't seeing any insects of any kind yet - about 2 weeks to go. $250 just seems like a lot of money now that I'm pretty sure it was carpenter ants and not termites. Your DIY article should be just what I need to prevent further infestations.
-Thanks, Richard.
VML
28 Apr 2009, 17:05
We bought a brand new home that was pre-treated for termites before we moved in. The house is currently 5 years old and the builder's termite warranty expires this month. Do we need to re-treat for termites if we have found no evidence of them?
thanks, VML
Ask the Exterminator
28 Apr 2009, 21:05
Once a house has been treated it's against the label to retreat with a termiticide if there is no active evidence of termites. That's a Federal label law.
VML
29 Apr 2009, 09:33
Thank you for your quick response. Is there anything that should be done maintenance wise to ensure we do not get termites now that the builder warranty expires?
thanks, VML
Ask the Exterminator
29 Apr 2009, 11:10
Have the house professionally inspected every two years. Contact the company that initally treated the house. They will offer you an annual renewal that will "insure" the house should you get treatments. The "insurance" usually only covers the re-treatment, but sometimes includes coverage for damages caused by the termites.
Suzanne Volkmer
01 May 2009, 17:06
We had a previous termite infestation, replaced the damaged wood and are now monitering the point of entry. Almost daily we destroy the tunnels of new termites trying to get in. If we are vigilant and keep destroying these tunnels can we keep the termites at bay or should we have the house treated or treat it ourselves with products available to the consumer?

Ask the Exterminator
01 May 2009, 17:27
Knocking down tunnels only makes the termite find other ways around you. You've got termites. Stop messing around and have the house treated. Sentricon bait can actually be applied directly to active termite tunnels which will result in killing the termites even faster. So, stop knocking down the tunnels.
jim
05 May 2009, 14:03
Ihave been looking for a product for spraying a foundation for termites. On a new house being built. And looking for a product that sprays on orange and turns clear and stays on forever. Talked to two or three people that have heard of it but didn't know where to get it . so if you could help me I would thank you very much.

Jim
Ask the Exterminator
05 May 2009, 16:09
Got me on this one. I just don't recall any that fits this description.
Wade
13 May 2009, 23:27
I found a spot where I evidently have subterranean termites and I'm pretty sure I know where they are entering. I am considering the above mentioned bait stations. Can you give any opinions on them or the one you simply prefer over the others due to bait and/or trap design?
Ask the Exterminator
14 May 2009, 17:06
I prefer Sentricon, by far, but it is only available through pest control professionals. DIY termite control is tough to do, but if you are determined give the Advance bait a try.
Coach Z
08 Jun 2009, 19:56
Hi, this is Coach Z, You gave me some good advices about mouse infests, and we got that mouse and got it good. Now, imagine SGs dismay when we saw the remnants of a termite swarm inside our house after a weekend away! We have mulches around the foundation, should we dig that foundation mulch away and pave it? Or is a dirt border stop those termites? SG and King of Town think that will not stop the termites, but is the inside swarm mean those termites have broken the perimeter? or is there still hope to save this house? thank you, Coach Z
Ask the Exterminator
08 Jun 2009, 23:10
Too late, Coach. Termites swarming inside is not a good sign. They have breached the walls. The enemy is within. Call a pest control company to win the battle.
ann Harris
13 Sep 2009, 21:54
Are there any sprays, powders, etc that can be heavily put on the insulation in the attic so that rodents, birds or bats, squirrels would not want to live in the attic. I am afraid of infestations of any kind and want to prevent or deter any occupants.
K
25 Sep 2009, 18:29
We had our house heat-treated last year,and had the termite company come back again a year later for new termites found in a bedroom window. The termite company sprayed foam into the walls around the window where they were swarming. It has since been 3 days and I still see a few swarming termites (around 4) every afternoon on the bottom of the inside of the window where you slide it in and out. The termite company said that it was normal to keep seeing a few termites for up to a month coming from this location. Is that true?
AMBER
03 Oct 2009, 23:47
We found termite tunnels around the front window of our brick house. We saw them on the inside when we drilled a hole near the window to hang curtains. We called a termite company and they said we do have them but it appears to be just in that one area. Their price seemed high so we decided to try it our selves first. We went to hardware store and got a spray. We sprayed the outside of entire house and inside around the window. Will this be enough to kill them? If not should we try something else or just hire a pro?
Ask the Exterminator
06 Oct 2009, 23:31
You cannot do it yourself. You do not have the proper equipment to do a sub-soil injection treatment. Hire a pro and get a warranty.
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