Kill Moles
Summary: Be careful about bringing out the heavy artillery to use against the moles in your lawn. Chemical pesticides or poisonous baits might be illegal to use in your state. If you are allowed to use baits for mole extermination where you live, then read on to learn more.
The mole is a solitary animal that spends much of its time underground. It is similar in looks to voles and groundhogs, except that moles have a nose without any hair on it. It has wide paws with claws designed for digging and, just so you know what you are looking at, moles don't have ears that stick out above their fur.
Molehills and groundhog burrows can be identified separately, too. The molehill has a perfectly conical mound of dirt that rises about ground level, while the groundhog burrow is actually a hole, or a sunken patch of earth.
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The mole is constantly feeding. It finds food without the use of it eyes. In fact, many moles are actually blind. The mole uses its nose to smell prey and it has specially developed sensors that can detect ground vibrations. The mole feeds on grubs and earthworms that fall down or dig up into the mole's tunnel. The mole will dig deeper tunnels in the winter when the invertebrates descend lower to avoid the frost line, and, conversely, moles will dig shallower tunnels during warm weather when worms and grubs are closer to the surface.
If a mole is terrorizing your lawn then it might be that there is a lack of insects in your lawn. Fewer insects means he needs to dig more tunnels to find food. That is why spraying insecticides that kill grubs won't necessarily drive away moles. In fact, many repellents won't work either because the mole can always dig new tunnels that are deeper or further away from whatever is bothering it. They are digging machines capable of digging tunnels fifty to one-hundred feet in a day. That would be equivalent to humans digging Boston's subway system in a week or two instead.
Most of the time a mole will not stay in one place for too long. They like to go where the food is and many reports of a mole infestation being cured by a magical remedy like bubblegum or manure might simply be that the mole has moved on to better hunting grounds. In cases where a mole does not want to leave but is still doing a lot of damage, mole extermination might be the only solution.
![]() Probing mole runs |
If you are bent on killing moles, there are many kinds of mole baits on the market. Talpirid and TomCat mole baits both are shaped like worms and use the chemical Bromethalin for their active ingredient. Bromethalin attacks the nervous system in moles, but is in small enough concentrations in the baits that it won't kill dogs or cats that accidentally eat a small amount of it. It will, however, kill moles that eat small amounts of the product. The makers of these two products will swear on a stack of bibles that their product is more effective than the other, but the truth is that these two products are similar. Both have the look and feel of earthworms, both use the same active ingredient, and both can kill moles.
Other products can also kill moles. Many mole pellets like Mole BeGone, Mole Go, Mole Patrol, and a variety of others can kill moles. Some of the pellet treatments use Warfarin for their active ingredient, which is an anticoagulant. Some rodents such as mice and rats have a resistance to Warfarin, but most moles do not. The problem will be to get the mole to eat your bait because the mole diet is made up primarily of fresh, live insects, but the mole will eat bait that it thinks is palatable. The texture and appearance of the worm shaped baits might make the mole more likely to eat them.
![]() Mole mound |
All baits must be applied to tunnels that show mole activity. Before applying bait you should actually see the ground move as the mole moves through his tunnels, or know that the mole is repairing tunnels that you have flattened by walking on them. The bait should be dropped into a small hole made with a stick or rod down into the tunnel. Cover the hole up with a piece of turf or a rock. The mole should not sense that their tunnel has been disturbed. The bait should be applied every ten feet or so along the length of the most active tunnel. The bait should never be applied above ground where another animal might have access to it.
One problem with mole bait is that it is expensive. One set of twenty Talpirid worms could run you as much as fifty bucks. Yikes! It might be worth it to try a few other methods of mole control first before you invest in fancy-pants mole baits. You can save yourself some money if you put out your lawn chair on a nice warm evening, open a cold one, arm yourself with a shovel and watch for the first mole-train to come by.
Comments
26 Aug 2008, 23:26
KMcD
27 Aug 2008, 08:28
Small holes can be created by lots of different animals including chipmunks and snakes.
01 Sep 2008, 10:43
01 Sep 2008, 21:57
If you don't want to try the Talpirid you can aways set traps.
23 Sep 2008, 00:31
23 Sep 2008, 09:35
19 Feb 2009, 09:27
19 Feb 2009, 09:54
18 Apr 2009, 17:57
18 Apr 2009, 18:08
18 May 2009, 09:21
04 Jun 2009, 19:48
THANKS
TJ
19 Jul 2009, 21:40
20 Jul 2009, 11:07
27 Jul 2009, 07:27
27 Jul 2009, 08:48
29 Jul 2009, 19:26
30 Jul 2009, 10:40
Trapping or killing a mole does not guarantee total success. New moles often take over the tunnels of departed moles. You need to continually thin out the population with ongoing trapping or baiting.
01 Aug 2009, 10:16
I had the first hole about two days ago so I moved one of the buzzers over and inserted it in the hole. This AM there is a new mole hole right next to the buzzer! (Sounds like he sent me a message.) This is starting to feel like caddy Shack de-ja-vue for me. I want to keep my garden organic but I broke down this AM and put the pellets you described in the hole. Since the tunnel comes up and under a raised garden I can't see the tunnel to poke a hole in it so I just poured these in the entrance to the tunnel which went straight down.
Now I did this last year and it didn't work.
Isn't there a way to "smoke out" the tunnel? The house next door is empty and we are lake front...his place is usually where varmits find safe have with little to no lawn mowing, etc.
Help!
01 Aug 2009, 18:20
You cannot smoke out a mole. He's too quick and he'll just run from the stuff.
04 Aug 2009, 10:41
09 Aug 2009, 20:14
10 Aug 2009, 19:37
22 Sep 2009, 13:19
22 Sep 2009, 14:03
25 Sep 2009, 02:07
Tthe easisest solution is to co-exist with your moles - just take away the spare earth from the molehills and the moles will happily live under your lawn for another year (more or less) >>> THIS WORKS and has worked in my garden for about twenty years
07 Oct 2009, 02:22
My buddy made a 12ga. shotgun mole killer.Shell goes in a tube thats welded to a steel plate w/2 rods that stick in the ground.A hinged tin w/hole through it lays on the fresh dig&when dirt moves up from mole BAM!So far-2 kills.I set a bucket over it for the dogs,dont need a nose gone.I know,Iknow I'll get in trouble.I'll take my chances.Not for everybody,but I like-it!
21 Oct 2009, 12:28
22 Oct 2009, 12:00
02 Nov 2009, 23:26
I am going crazy with the tunnels that are being made on my lawn at the cottage. I have had Mr. Turf Man out to spray but I think the problem has tripled. In the mornings I find on my dirt driveway small, soft, dark green , encased excrement - Is this from a mole running around at night?
I have pored castor oil into the holes - this just seems to make the mole find another area of the lawn to tunnel through. These tunnels are very spongy to the foot. Last spring part of the lawn look like a truck had spun its wheels - what am I to do?
Please help.
Sharon
03 Nov 2009, 09:18
07 Nov 2009, 14:51



