This is enlightening coming from a pest control expert. It seems most
places I have researched always come back to using a pesticide and a PCO
to fully eradicate bedbugs. It also seems that recommendations for one
over the other hinge on which product those people are endorsing.
We just got back from vacation and picked up some bedbugs. We also have 3
small children and two cats and very hesitant to use chemicals in our
house. At the same time, my research warns about enzymes not being able to
fully eradicate an infestation. Hopefully we are catching it early enough
that the bugs haven't gotten a good hold in our house.
Anyway, I'm curious about the eco-friendly products that DO have a residual
effect like diatomaceous earth. What do you think of an extermination plan
using DE along with an enzyme product, dusting the places that can't be
fully treated with a contact spray?
Bed Bug Sprays
Summary: With bed bug populations raging, the race to market bed bug spray control products is at a fevered pitch. Find out what products pest control companies are using and what products are available to the general public.
Bed bug control products must contact the bed bug directly for best results. We use Bedlam Insecticide, D-Force HPX, Tempo 1% Dust and Temprid SC for treatments for our customers.
The first news announcement that bed bugs were back in the United States was only a few years ago. The spread of bed bug infestations has reached nearly every state and has hit epidemic proportions. Matching the rise in reported bed bugs is the unprecedented increase in so-called bed bug killing products. I say “so-called” because a great many of the products now available for purchase have been on the market for years under different names with different labels.
 |
Most of the chemical manufacturers rushed to have their labels updated to include bed bugs on their label's list of targeted insects. What was once a product touted for its ability to kill flies might now carry a new product label promising immediate bed bug control. So, how does our government allow what appears to be a marketing flimflam? Well, in the eyes of the Environmental Protection Agency, the federal agency that oversees pesticide product labeling, the newly presented products do, in fact, kill bed bugs. My objection is that the advertising leads you to believe that researchers worked late into the night developing a product to knock out the insidious bed bugs, and that simply not the case.
Truth be told, all the products labeled for bed bug eradication are from the same chemical molecules that have been on sale for years. These products do a great job of killing most insects, including bed bugs, if, and this is a big “if”, if the product comes in direct contact with the bed bug. Therein lies the hitch. Bed bugs love to hide deep down in the folds of upholstery of, for example, a couch. When pesticides are applied on the couch fabric they are quickly absorbed leaving little to no residual chemical on the surface. When the bed bugs come out of hiding for their next meal it is unlikely they will come in contact with enough of the residual to kill them.
This lack of killing residue is the problem faced by pest control professionals and non-professionals when treating for bed bugs. We cannot get the chemical into all the bed bug hiding places. Therefore, repeat applications are required to thin out the bed bug population and break the egg laying cycle. Each subsequent application hopefully comes in contact with more adult bed bugs, reducing the number of eggs being laid and ultimately knocking out the population.
So, when you are selecting you pesticide weapon of choice, knowing that direct contact is the answer to control, I suggest using the least toxic products you can find. Why expose yourself to a product that has more contraindications for human contact? We know we have to make contact with the insect anyway, so you may as well choose a product that has the lowest
 Enzyme-based product |
toxicity level for humans and pets. Keeping this in mind I really like the new enzyme products that have come on the market. These products are so safe that they are not even required to be registered with the EPA. However, when these enzyme products touch a bed bug it kills the insect in less than thirty seconds. You can tell the bed bug has died because it stops moving and its rear end raises straight up into the air, almost as if the bed bug is trying to do a handstand. It is very cool and very effective.
There are alcohol-based products such as SteriFab that do a great job of killing bed bugs on contact, but those products are quite volatile due to the high alcohol content. In a closed room you can experience light-headedness and nausea, so you must ventilate when using these products. Plus, there is a fire hazard. That is why we recommend the enzyme-based products.
Oddly, the enzyme products for bed bug control cannot be found on grocery store or hardware store shelves. For now, you need to order the products online. Be sure you are not ordering the products like clove oil or oil of wintergreen that also claim bed bug control. The product must specifically say it contains enzymes. The Natural Ginesis product, KleenGreen is a good brand.
Be sure to read the ingredients when you visit web sites claiming bed bug control. Some of the products will make you think you are buying an enzyme, but on closer examination you will see that the product contains everything but enzymes. Buyer beware!
For more bed bug information please click here .
Comments
Jeremy Cox
27 Jun 2009, 14:59
27 Jun 2009, 14:59
Cindy
28 Jun 2009, 00:53
28 Jun 2009, 00:53
I ordered Kleen Green and am still waiting for it to come in. I was going
to ask the same question with regards to DE. I purchased that as well, and
have sprinkled that on my carpets and even sprinkled some in the sofa. We
have leather sofas (old) and have found quite a few bed bugs there. I don't
know the effects yet, as I only dusted everything a few hours ago. I am
interested in your expert opinion on that, too. I have also found some in
my car (felt them biting me, and saw one on my shirt). I didn't even think
about the car. We live in a very hot climate; temps get above 100's. Would
you recommend I just allow the car to sit and "cook" or should I try
dusting it, or using Kleen Green?
Lisa
08 Jul 2009, 16:38
08 Jul 2009, 16:38
I was reading some of the comments and I see you basically said that if
they're in the couch buy a new one! I'm ready to pass out at the thought of
that! There is really "NO WAY" to get the bed bugs out of a couch? My couch
was very expensive and it took me a whole year to finish paying and finally
buy my couch, so just tossing it and buying a new one is not really within
my means. Is there anything I can do to stop the infestation there? I'll
keep retreating my couch every day if I have to!
Cindy
08 Jul 2009, 20:55
08 Jul 2009, 20:55
Lisa,
We were in the same boat as you--have nice sofas and didn't particularly want to throw them out. We sprayed the heck out of them with Kleen Green and let it sit, on and in the cracks and crevices (we have leather sofas; Kleen Green didn't harm the leather. I don't know what it does to other fabric). When it dried, we also dusted Diatomaceous Earth on and in the sofas, the nooks and crannies and underneath on the floor. We left it on there for a week, then repeated the process. We still have Diatomaceous Earth on the floor, but have cleaned off the sofas. Of course, we didn't sit on the sofas during the DE process--too itchy. It seems to have done the trick. We haven't seen any more bed bugs on the sofa, eggs, no more bites. We caught them early, I am sure, but we will continue to keep a check on everything. Good luck! I hope you get them all!
We were in the same boat as you--have nice sofas and didn't particularly want to throw them out. We sprayed the heck out of them with Kleen Green and let it sit, on and in the cracks and crevices (we have leather sofas; Kleen Green didn't harm the leather. I don't know what it does to other fabric). When it dried, we also dusted Diatomaceous Earth on and in the sofas, the nooks and crannies and underneath on the floor. We left it on there for a week, then repeated the process. We still have Diatomaceous Earth on the floor, but have cleaned off the sofas. Of course, we didn't sit on the sofas during the DE process--too itchy. It seems to have done the trick. We haven't seen any more bed bugs on the sofa, eggs, no more bites. We caught them early, I am sure, but we will continue to keep a check on everything. Good luck! I hope you get them all!
Cindy
26 Jul 2009, 02:44
26 Jul 2009, 02:44
The only thing we threw away were our box springs, but we had been planning
on doing that before we even found out we had bed bugs. We placed our
mattress in an allergen protector, as this website suggested, and we have a
memory foam topper that we've left out on top of the mattress. DE and Kleen
Green won't hurt your cats. We have two dogs and neither of those products
have hurt them at all. In fact, some sites say that you can dust your pets
with the DE. I haven't found that we've needed to do that, luckily. We've
left DE dusted under the sofas. We didn't throw our leather sofas/recliners
away: we sprayed them down with Kleen Green, left it there to dry, and then
dusted with DE. We just stayed off the sofas for a week to a week and a
half, leaving DE on the sofas. We can't afford to buy new sofas, so it
wasn't an option. We also put DE underneath the beds, including our
daughter's, and have left it there, and along the baseboards, nooks and
crannies. We pulled out the beds so they're not touching the walls, and put
double sided carpet tape on the legs of our bed. We make sure nothing is
touching the floor, bedding or sheets, or anything like that. We've had
great results doing all of these things; so far, no more bed bugs. Just
keep vigilant. Don't throw your memory foam mattress away! There's no need
to! They can't actually live inside your memory foam mattress, just on it.
so if you don't see any on your mattress, you're fine. I'd wrap it in an
allergen protector just in case; it certainly can't hurt!
As for your Christmas decorations/tree, well, what are they packed in? We keep our stuff packed in plastic containers. No critters are getting in there. You could always try putting DE in with your things if you think there might be bugs in there. That's what I'd do, anyway.
As for your Christmas decorations/tree, well, what are they packed in? We keep our stuff packed in plastic containers. No critters are getting in there. You could always try putting DE in with your things if you think there might be bugs in there. That's what I'd do, anyway.
itchy
01 Aug 2009, 01:35
Hi
something i copied from some website - comment from lil b:-
The "XXXX products are simple enzymes. In Theory they are supposed to damage the mites external skeleton. Like a crap or a spider(same family as mites) their skeleton is on the outside and if ya damage that the animal will dehydrate and DIE DIE DIE!(We hope!) The ""XXXX products are a total RIP OFF! Simple cleaning enzymes in a fancy package. Lets see If I bought x at the feed store for $39.00 a gallon and put it..............
my question is whether the 7th generation 2X concentrated laundry detergent which is made from enzymes and has amylase, cellulase and protease, can it do the job of digesting the mites ?
01 Aug 2009, 01:35
Hi
something i copied from some website - comment from lil b:-
The "XXXX products are simple enzymes. In Theory they are supposed to damage the mites external skeleton. Like a crap or a spider(same family as mites) their skeleton is on the outside and if ya damage that the animal will dehydrate and DIE DIE DIE!(We hope!) The ""XXXX products are a total RIP OFF! Simple cleaning enzymes in a fancy package. Lets see If I bought x at the feed store for $39.00 a gallon and put it..............
my question is whether the 7th generation 2X concentrated laundry detergent which is made from enzymes and has amylase, cellulase and protease, can it do the job of digesting the mites ?
Karen
12 Aug 2009, 16:11
12 Aug 2009, 16:11
Might the enzyme based stain and odor removing products sold at pet stores
work equally as well as a direct contact spray? If I recall they only run
$12-16 per gallon.
mike
20 Aug 2009, 21:24
20 Aug 2009, 21:24
i've noticed that most bed bug products contain pyrethrins and that flea
killing products contain them as well can i use flea sprays and powders to
kill bed bugs? i can find plenty of flea products but only seem to not be
able to find any bed bug sprays or powders, also boric acid and usefull
mahmoud abuawwad
25 Aug 2009, 23:57
25 Aug 2009, 23:57
i am live in saudia arabia and i attack every night from them and i tryed
alot of producte but it was useless and i contacted with spcial buge bed
company
and useless it is still my home and my bed
pls help me what i have to do or buy
and from where
and useless it is still my home and my bed
pls help me what i have to do or buy
and from where
Roger
05 Sep 2009, 00:33
05 Sep 2009, 00:33
I question the effectiveness of enzymes. Do you have any studies proving
its effectiveness?
Cindy
08 Sep 2009, 15:59
08 Sep 2009, 15:59
Well, if you want studies on the effectiveness of enzymes, I'd suggest you
do research on line. As for me, I don't need studies that tell me enzymes
work...I've seen it for myself. My house is bedbug-free now, thanks to
enzymes, as well as diatomaceous earth. So knock yourself out on the
studies thing...for me, the proof is in the results!
HC
26 Jan 2010, 08:46
26 Jan 2010, 08:46
Thanks for the encouragement Cindy regarding the enzymes.
I have had my apt treated by a PCO, but I have also been using the Kleen Green spray to spray my items and soak clothes etc in it and was unsure of how effective it is.
Cheers!
I have had my apt treated by a PCO, but I have also been using the Kleen Green spray to spray my items and soak clothes etc in it and was unsure of how effective it is.
Cheers!
Ernest Demenna Jr.
18 Dec 2010, 20:20
18 Dec 2010, 20:20
Rick Steinaeu,
It is a Pleasure to read sometechnif succintly written,getting directly to point on all new bed buyg product, i ama microbiologist/biocxhemist. however have had to deal with bedbugs ,in NYC, and i accidentally, i believe, inenfected my parents couch, NYC, seem to eother hahit its peaks, ,at its bedbug peak, or just starting decline,
what is alraming is the amount of misonformations:
rick these are my major "beefs" with the prodcuts ive surveyed for bedbug contreol ,as a semi-knwledger layperson,with some chemistry stidying odf the problem, but hav bnot DEALT with it day in day out, areyou aware how bad NYC has gotten??? with bedbug, nowhere is safe, i learned how quickly one can attachtpo aapant leg, and re-infect aroom, i iogot my room fine,went in to nieghbor, and reinfected my room
reguarding alternate products
imporatanto me is the safety/efficacy ratio ,asi noticed with you, amking me appierto seee we were thinking along same line......
i beleive detroying bedbug for laypeople canbe thought of as 3 stage process
1) ideentifiying areas,a nd initial QUICK KILL, posining,to drive down adult population kill eggs at visibl sight, prodcuts iv eseen available are:
Water based prethrins (chrsyanthemmum extract, low toxicity, but water based, effedctiveness WEAK, even with direct applicationto bug, residual kill effect: NONE OBSERVED
same company
2) Oil based peodiuction using a apyrethriun or decfamthrin
with PIPERONYL BUTOXIDE ,seemingly, not sure,as a synnergist cause increases LD50 massivless, and kiltime reduced, again:though Oloil based has
Residual Kill Effect:weak to FAIR, but BEST ON DIRECT CONTACT im donvinved the piiperonyl butoxide is function as a synnergist, greatly enhancing pyrethrin/decamethrin kil l pathway, notr sure, witll look up biockemistry,,,,
ive used DDT, quite egffectivley, but i work in a laboroatoy, and it shouldnt relaly be used , i ised it for ecperments with LD5t0, i can see whya post WWII we thought we had this "locked" but as a biologist it provs life lfinbds a way,doyou know the NYTCstrain of liemx bedbug aremany hundred timesdresistant to pyrethrins alone than florida susspecies,at least coommon ones, what does that say?
biology or lifewillfind aa way, it is tenacious, aND I DONT LIKE THESECREATURE suckingmyda,mn blood!!!
responses appreciated,espeically ones that explain biochemistry of insectidides of ponts and links,
and thanks to Rick for keepoing a sight that can jelp people
almost forgot Stage2) PREVENTATIVE :after killing main ddults, cleaning,area,then apply diatomaceous earh, which is crushed silica, sued in many pool type filter,exttremely NON -toxic, you can eat it, i haveto prove to people safty, and it is made from crishied silicondixode, or crished diatoms,seawshell by vhitenous organisms, whicharefine foprhumas,evenhave trace value,as nutrients,but, it looks like talcum poder,but it will :"scratch" the exoskeleton if the bedebugso it loses inegrity and dessictes (dries outrA) at approx 30% water ,the bugs ceaseto nbr able to dufunction It is extremely important o aply this eEVERYWHERE<< nad leav errom let settle, becauethiswill kiioll infnt stage you can barely see,qq nad keep them dpwn, additional reapplicstion as needed,
on ogood brand is JT Eaton says KIllS BEdBUGS in green label, is 100% siliconm dioxode, ulta fine white powder , when it remains contact oil on bedbug itsticsk, and slices him up wityh every move, harmlessto humns, does not cause itching etc,,,,,, not like a viberglass,,,,look at what silicon dixode or diatomoaceous earth if trulyt concerned, this willll keep population at bay, peapply
re-apply as needed, and re-apply PWeder ,as it muswt remain dryto be effective,it is inedpensive,and make sure the otheer product is in red /white spray bottle oil based,containinf piperonyl butoxide,, ri
Rick Does tyhis methodoly sound reasonable?
i am trying to write a laymens guidwe, but am intersted in biochemistry myself aswel, other professional prducts are egg killers, whaddya think, is my method sound?
ernest@bway.net
It is a Pleasure to read sometechnif succintly written,getting directly to point on all new bed buyg product, i ama microbiologist/biocxhemist. however have had to deal with bedbugs ,in NYC, and i accidentally, i believe, inenfected my parents couch, NYC, seem to eother hahit its peaks, ,at its bedbug peak, or just starting decline,
what is alraming is the amount of misonformations:
rick these are my major "beefs" with the prodcuts ive surveyed for bedbug contreol ,as a semi-knwledger layperson,with some chemistry stidying odf the problem, but hav bnot DEALT with it day in day out, areyou aware how bad NYC has gotten??? with bedbug, nowhere is safe, i learned how quickly one can attachtpo aapant leg, and re-infect aroom, i iogot my room fine,went in to nieghbor, and reinfected my room
reguarding alternate products
imporatanto me is the safety/efficacy ratio ,asi noticed with you, amking me appierto seee we were thinking along same line......
i beleive detroying bedbug for laypeople canbe thought of as 3 stage process
1) ideentifiying areas,a nd initial QUICK KILL, posining,to drive down adult population kill eggs at visibl sight, prodcuts iv eseen available are:
Water based prethrins (chrsyanthemmum extract, low toxicity, but water based, effedctiveness WEAK, even with direct applicationto bug, residual kill effect: NONE OBSERVED
same company
2) Oil based peodiuction using a apyrethriun or decfamthrin
with PIPERONYL BUTOXIDE ,seemingly, not sure,as a synnergist cause increases LD50 massivless, and kiltime reduced, again:though Oloil based has
Residual Kill Effect:weak to FAIR, but BEST ON DIRECT CONTACT im donvinved the piiperonyl butoxide is function as a synnergist, greatly enhancing pyrethrin/decamethrin kil l pathway, notr sure, witll look up biockemistry,,,,
ive used DDT, quite egffectivley, but i work in a laboroatoy, and it shouldnt relaly be used , i ised it for ecperments with LD5t0, i can see whya post WWII we thought we had this "locked" but as a biologist it provs life lfinbds a way,doyou know the NYTCstrain of liemx bedbug aremany hundred timesdresistant to pyrethrins alone than florida susspecies,at least coommon ones, what does that say?
biology or lifewillfind aa way, it is tenacious, aND I DONT LIKE THESECREATURE suckingmyda,mn blood!!!
responses appreciated,espeically ones that explain biochemistry of insectidides of ponts and links,
and thanks to Rick for keepoing a sight that can jelp people
almost forgot Stage2) PREVENTATIVE :after killing main ddults, cleaning,area,then apply diatomaceous earh, which is crushed silica, sued in many pool type filter,exttremely NON -toxic, you can eat it, i haveto prove to people safty, and it is made from crishied silicondixode, or crished diatoms,seawshell by vhitenous organisms, whicharefine foprhumas,evenhave trace value,as nutrients,but, it looks like talcum poder,but it will :"scratch" the exoskeleton if the bedebugso it loses inegrity and dessictes (dries outrA) at approx 30% water ,the bugs ceaseto nbr able to dufunction It is extremely important o aply this eEVERYWHERE<< nad leav errom let settle, becauethiswill kiioll infnt stage you can barely see,qq nad keep them dpwn, additional reapplicstion as needed,
on ogood brand is JT Eaton says KIllS BEdBUGS in green label, is 100% siliconm dioxode, ulta fine white powder , when it remains contact oil on bedbug itsticsk, and slices him up wityh every move, harmlessto humns, does not cause itching etc,,,,,, not like a viberglass,,,,look at what silicon dixode or diatomoaceous earth if trulyt concerned, this willll keep population at bay, peapply
re-apply as needed, and re-apply PWeder ,as it muswt remain dryto be effective,it is inedpensive,and make sure the otheer product is in red /white spray bottle oil based,containinf piperonyl butoxide,, ri
Rick Does tyhis methodoly sound reasonable?
i am trying to write a laymens guidwe, but am intersted in biochemistry myself aswel, other professional prducts are egg killers, whaddya think, is my method sound?
ernest@bway.net
Ask the Exterminator
20 Dec 2010, 13:13
20 Dec 2010, 13:13
Your methods seem to be sound. I will tell you that regardless of the
pesticide used, direct contact with the bed bug is key to control.
